I didn't even have a butty

Can you imagine a fine eatery with views to die for, an interesting clientèle that's open over the winter months? Of course there's always the Tolsta shoppe where a grand tea or coffee can be had to compliment your paper, bread and herrings. Only, if you are in Harris - the bottom part of this island [Lewis&Harris] - Tolsta Shoppe is too far away to be convenient.

Butty Bus and Ferry

So, lose no time and get yourself down to Leverburgh, past the Hebrides Art place which I have never been in due to it always being shut when I'm there -and as it is till March 2013. Go right down to the ferry ramp that would take you to Berneray if you so wanted where there's the Anchorage cafe which, as you might have guessed is mainly shut at this time of year then turn to your right and you'll see an old bus. A coach really. An Italian made one by all accounts. This, I can now tell you, is The Butty Bus. Famed far and wide for it's butties, soups and if you are that way inclined, beefburgers. And clientèle. Why, you might meet John Maher here. Will Self did. Rod Ellingworth did too. And I had that pleasure too.

There was Cullen Skink on offer when we were there. A lovely brew it was accompanied by the finest of butty bread and supped while watching the locals drag a boat along the road with a rusty van. As you do.